Introduction - Why is Biscay so feared?

Modern yachts, with their much more efficient rigs and their engines, should not have the same problems - particularly if they use weather forecasts carefully. Nevertheless, there have been several occasions in recent years of yachts getting into difficulties, sometimes with fatal consequences. From the accounts that I have read, I believe that most of these problems were avoidable and that few were entirely a result of bad luck or even bad forecasting.

In bad weather, Biscay can be as unpleasant as any stretch of sea anywhere. But, if you want to get to warmer climes, as we did, and having a draft of 2 metres, then crossing it becomes a must. Having had several years sailing in and around Biscay, having talked to others and being a (now retired) weatherman, I will try to give some help to those wishing to follow in our wake but who may have been put off by its reputation.

The Traditional Route

There are several advantages to this tactic.

• First, by keeping far out a yacht will not be prone to the effects of any steepening of the Atlantic swell in the Bay.

 

• Secondly, there are often increases of wind around the Atlantic coasts of Spain, notably off the extreme NW tip, Cabo Bares, and off Cabo Finisterre. How often does the shipping forecast say "........locally gale 8 near Cape Finisterre"?  These effects can be avoided by being far enough out to sea. 

• Thirdly, you can choose your time when to approach the coast whether this be la Coruña, or further south, if going to. the Mediterranean or the Canaries and en route to the trade winds for an Atlantic crossing.

Weather is the most important consideration for most sea or ocean passages and Biscay is no exception. Even to Bayona - the landfall for the YM Rally Portugal, passage times from South coast harbours are likely to be near or beyond the range of reasonably accurate weather prediction. The many improvements in meteorology over the past 30 years due to use of the most powerful computers have resulted in forecasts for 5 or 6 days being of sufficient quality to be produced operationally. However, forecasts, particularly beyond

The best time of year for this crossing is June or July. But, even then, a skipper would be well advised to be prepared for gale force winds even though none was forecast at the time of departure. At the very least, gales are always possible near the Spanish coast in the Summer as the Spanish heat low deepens during the day, especially when the Azores high intensifies or moves a little to the east. During the rest of the year, winds of force 9, 10 or more would always be a possibility.

In any event, and whatever the time of year, if you choose this option you must study the weather forecasts carefully - more of this later. Only go when there seems to be a good weather slot for the next 5 or 6 days. If you feel the need for further advice, especially beyond the 5 days or regarding confidence levels, then discuss the prospects with the Met Office, using MetCall Direct. The £17 or so could be money well spent. There are similar services available from other sources, eg Météo Consult.

Returning to the UK, all the same considerations apply - no one wants to risk closing the SW of England in a force 9.

Clearly, this is not a venture to be undertaken lightly and many find the prospect daunting. .The ever present possibility of strong winds make this passage far from ideal for many family or lightly crewed cruising yachts. I suggest that it should not be undertaken unless both boat and crew are equipped, and prepared, to full blue water standards.

Round the Coast

First, there are a number of ports on the west coast of France and Northern Spain that are difficult or impossible to enter if there is a big swell running. There have been instances in recent year, and at least one fatality through skippers not appreciating the effects of a big swell on the entrances to Sables d'Olonne, St Gilles, Bourg nay and so on. Also some ports on the north coast of Spain.

 Approaching Royan from the north means using la Grande Passe to enter the Gironde. On a spring ebb with even a moderate Atlantic swell, this can be very

Entering the Bassin d'Arcachon, likewise, can be stressful, and dangerous at less than half tide. Telephone the Cap Ferret semaphore station (they speak reasonable English if your French is too basic) and they will give you a window of entry based on the latest forecast. I have checked before leaving Royan and, again, by VHF when about an hour away from the entrance. I found them very helpful.

Betwixt and Between

My own preferred tactic, going south, is to cross the Channel to Audierne or Camaret. Audierne has my vote since it is the closest port in France to both Gijon and la Coruña. It is also south of the Raz de Sein - one less factor to take into account before setting off. It is well worth going up the river where you find a small marina in the heart of a delightful Breton town with all necessities (patisseries, poissoneries, boucheries, légumeries, creperies) right around the 

• First, short passages down to any of the islands from Groix to d'Oléron and thence to Santander or Bilbao.
 
• Secondly, direct to Gijon.
 
• Thirdly,. direct to la Coruña.

After each it is then a case of coast hopping passages as lengthy as you feel necessary and desirable.

Island hopping

To Gijon

To la Coruña

After la Coruña, it is a reasonably easy day sail to Caramiñas just north of Cabo Finisterre, or a longer one to Ria Muros south of the dreaded Cape. We have rounded Finisterre twice southwards, once under boomed out Genoa and once under Spinnaker. After our one northward rounding, we had to wait five days in Caramiñas for gales to abate. We saw a great deal of lace being made in this

If wanting to cross to Gijon or la Coruña direct from South Coast ports, such as Dartmouth, Plymouth or Falmouth, then passage times will be a day or so longer. It makes sense to go through the Chenal du Four and, perhaps, the Raz so that, if the forecast takes a turn for the worse, a diversion to Camaret or Audierne becomes feasible.

Going northwards, all the same ideas apply and the same crossings can be used.

Which Weather Forecasts?

RadioFax, GRIB code and Radio Teleprinter

Offenbach and Northwood broadcast forecasts of sea state 2 days ahead, twice a day.

The examples were received on the morning of Thursday, 31 May, 2001. On the basis of this information, I would not be planning to start a crossing likely to go beyond noon of Tuesday, I would, of course, be watching the next broadcast with care.

Telephone services

GMDSS

What to look for

Having decided to go, then keep monitoring the forecast using the Radio 4 BBC LW Shipping forecast, INMARSAT-C, or NAVTEX from CROSS Corsen and la Coruña. Take each and every forecast, make notes of voice broadcasts - do not trust to memory. Remember that the French and Spanish NAVTEX forecasts use three areas to cover Biscay. They should be more specific than the UK single Biscay area.

All the time be on the lookout for any changes in emphasis or suggestion of uncertainty in the forecast. If you are unsure then consider diverting - say, to Gijon if your destination was la Coruña, or to Santander if Gijon had been in your sights.

Other Hazards

God drew this bit of coast line on a Mercator's projection chart with a ruler and, visually, it is just as interesting. We prefer to do it by night in two bites to/from Arcachon. At worst, the weather and the firing range activity can mean waiting for a few days before proceeding. This is hardly a penalty as there is much to see and do. For example, Rochefort, up the Charente is well worth a few days of anyone's time.

If departing or arriving at Ile d'Yeu, then be sure to give the Rochebonne Plateau a wide berth. It creates a rough sea for some considerable distance around it.

And finally..................