Malta to Venice, via Sicily, Italy, Croatia and Slovenia

Late April to September, 2005

Hallberg Rassy 34, Anhinga.

Date

Log

Miles

Nights

€
Night

Total
€

Port

Anchor or Buoy

April  24 - May 9

MALTA

Returned to Malta, Manoel Island Yacht Yard. This is as well organised (owned by the Government) as we had thought last September,.  There are still signs (and signs) of the RN. All the staff are very friendly, competent and helpful. Cheap it is not but the work is good and you get what you pay for. Everything was done as and when agreed. For our 10.3 m Lifts out and in totalled about UK £260. Berthing ashore was £M1.7 per m per week. For 32 weeks this came to UK£1152 (both inc VAT).

Fitting out this year was a labour of love. We had to replace our aged, defunct Raytheon ST50 GPS and had decided that now was the time to upgrade the VHF to DSC capability. The shower cum taps in the heads needed replacing. Our cabin lights were looking distinctly tired, the pipes to and from the holding tank, loo and the holding tank valve all were due for replacement. A new freshwater pump seemed a good idea while we were in plumbing mode.

Any job on a boat takes at least four times as long as you expect. These, apart from the 5 new lights, were no exception. Maybe that was because Jennifer and Margaret added electrician to their many other skills. The tap and shower head should have been easy except that the original installer had over tightened one of the fittings. We could not remove a bit of old pipe from within the nut nor could we find a replacement. The yard kindly obliged with a reverse tap. The water pump replacement, again, looked easy. That was until we realised that the connectors to the pipes were longer than previously. Due to lack of space the new pump has had to be fitted aslant. The rubber feet for the mounting fitted into slots and not into holes as in the old one. . That meant that when holding three and trying to screw the fourth, one, at least, of the three escaped.

The loo pipes and stopcock were just laborious. But, having finished we realised that the one pipe that we had not touched was leaking,

Perhaps the radio and Garmin GPS were the biggest headache. Both seemed to work OK but the radio could not recognise the GPS signal. A telephone call to the supplier, several to Raymarine (RAY240E) and an email to Garmin (GPS 152) got us nowhere. Luckily after midday on Friday, Raymarine UK is closed and technical calls are routed to the US. The expert there was very helpful. Instead of wiring precisely as in the books ie connecting the negative NMEA input of  the radio directly  to the earth of the GPS we connected it to the boat earth. Apparently, this avoids interference from stray signals. Whatever the reason, it worked. Vive the special relationship!

On the 29th we were launched. As there were no suitable berthas afloat at MIYY we went round the corner to Manoel Island Marina. Very good. Helpful and friendly. Good toilets/showers.

The advantage of both MIYY and MIM over some of the other marinas in Malta is the proximity to chandlers. There are several of various sizes, specialist electrical shop/ workshop and gas all a few minutes walk away. Dropped something? Lost something? Broken something? It will probably be there. There is a supermarket reasonably close. In the back streets there are many small corner shops, vegetable stalls and a bakery.

For good cheap meals out we used the Waterside along the Strand towards Sliema. Good views, air conditioning in the Summer. Menu is the same every day. Slightly more expensive and good is the Quayside, further towards Sliema. Try the fried rabbit in a wine sauce - but, forget the cuddly white animals that you saw down the road.

For the first week until launch we stayed in the flats run by the Bay View Hotel, These are about 5 minutes walk from MIYY and MIM, comfortable and have that most desirable of all to the cruising sailor - a washing machine.

Apr 29 to May 9

Afloat at MIM.

10

 28.6

286 

May 9

Early start for a passage to SE Sicily. Very light wind at first, gradually increased to light NW then backed a little to give nice gentle shy spinnaker reach. Approaching Cozzo Spadero the wind increased a little and round the  Island off Cabo Passero it increased to give an almost exciting approach. Clearly a sea breeze effect.  Went into Marzamemi.

Best forecast was the Turkish at http://www.meteor.gov.tr/2003/tahmindeniz/denizbanen.htm. This is a slow download but we used the SailDocs facility.

 63

 2

 17.5

 35 

May 10

SICILY

Walked into the town of Marzamemi to find some (pretty awful) bread and the emporium that sells a most marvellous range of smoked fish, honey, wine and other delicacies. Much of the town that we saw was given over to holiday homes and was as dead as a doornail.

A black mark for MIYY. Found that the engineers had not only not replaced the rocker cover gasket as promised last September - just got overlooked - but had left the cover retaining bolts loose. Will have to get gasket replaced,  probably in Syracuse.  Talking to others, we gathered that such  an occurrence is virtually impossible at MIYY, they have so many checks and balances. This one slipped through the net.

May 11

A good sail on a developing sea breeze. As usual it got quite strong around headlands - especially entering the Grand harbour at Syracuse.

Had engineer come and look at the rocker cover. He could not obtain a gasket but used a liquid sealant. We are a little worried about that but later found it to be acceptable. After some exchange of emails and a telephone chat, MIYY have apologised. It just got overlooked.

23 

 10

 30

 300

Spent several days at Syracuse. A very good market close by with some of the best fish stalls ever. Cheap gin nearby. Tonic water may be a problem.  Much of interest and a delightful town. As ever, as we have found in Sicily, everyone is helpful.

May  21

At last managed to tear ourselves away from Syracuse. With some reluctance. Despite the Italian forecast of NW 4 or 5 we had a nice gentle sea breeze that reached a respectable SE F 4. Arrived Catania, went to the Circolo Nautico NIC. Met by very friendly Ormeggiatoro, Eugenio who speaks French, German and English with varying degrees of fluency. He is the CA HLR.

 32

2 

 23

 46

May 22

Went into Catania. After negotiating the litter strewn streets nearby, the centre is quite pleasant and interesting with some fine buildings. There was a most disorganised street Sunday market with everything possible from dubious underwear to good meat.

Back at the marina I had a boost to my already inflated ego. An Italian couple introduced themselves having recognised Anhinga. They are fans of my weather site. Quite a compliment as they are blue water sailors of considerable experience with a large yacht - a Swan.

May 23

A very disappointing sail after a brisk start to Riposto. This is one of the best organised, clean and efficient marinas that we have met since leaving Spain. The complex includes a good quality but not over expensive restaurant, competent and helpful shipyard, hoist and crane, excellent showers.

19

 5

24

 120

May 23

Shopping in the town is very convenient with a good fish and produce market very close. A Salumeria, also close was small but well stocked and helpful. This must be the best marina in Italy. Bread and meat shops are also close. This very nice, small town, with Etna as a close and impressive backdrop, is a delightful place to spend a few days. Try a few words of Italian and the locals think it both amusing and an attempt to communicate in their language. This came over in the generous weighing of market produce.

May 26

Took bus to Taormina, one hour scheduled, less than €4 return! The trip was interesting just to see the area and admire he driver's skill in negotiating crowded streets followed by the tour de force up and down the hairpin bends approaching Taormina.

Very tourusty but delightful. The Greek theatre/amphitheatre is in very good condition especially after the rather poor specimen of a Roman amphitheatre at Syracuse. Again, as so often in Italy EU OAPs get in free. Walked around the town. Had a good lunch.

May 27

From Riposto there is a narrow gauge railway line that goes to Catania around Etna - Circumetnea. On the advice of the tourist office we decided to give this a try as far as Randazzo. First surprise was at the railway station when we were shown to a bus. There followed a bus ride that rivalled Space Mountain at Disneyland for excitement. Eventually we transferred to the train for the last half hour of a 90 minute trip.

Randazzo has some old areas but also much new building despite the glowering presence of Etna. As there has been a town there for hundreds of years, we can only assume that it must be safe. The scenery on the trip was spectacular.

May 28

Left Riposto with some regret for Rocella Ionica on the mainland. Crossing the Messina Strait we had a fast fine reach but the wind died approaching the coast. It came back as a moderate sea breeze but died later. At Rocella Ionica there are that rarity - finger pontoons. That is the only luxury. No water or electricity but no charge.

75

1

0

 0

May 29

ITALY

Despite Rocella Ionica having some charm, we wanted to get to Le Castella. The promised sea breeze set in and veered to a spinnaker direction but was then killed by a large thunderstorm over the land. we escaped the storm but lost the wind.

49

 2

 20

 40

May 30

Explored Le Castella, a small but charming holiday town. An impressive castle built into the rock and looking like it had  been made by an advanced child with bucket and spade plus good firm sand.  Food shopping was limited but we did find camping gaz.

May 31

Not wanting to encounter the reportedly aggressive Ormeggiatori at Crotone, we made the passage round to Ciro. The sail was another disappointment with little wind. Here we met up with a Swedish yacht who confirmed our decision about Crotone. Not a nice place. Ciro is one of those Portos Turistico where there are free moorings. There is water but nothing else. It seemed a thriving small town with am active fishing fleet. There was a fine fish market in the harbour.

34

 1

 0

 0

June 1

The passage to Santa Maria di Leuca started with a gentle fine reach, then a short fine spinnaker reach before the wind died for an hour or so. It came back stronger and gave us a good fast spinnaker reach. After a close encounter with a large ship heading for Taranto the wind died again and the last three hours were under motor.

The port was a little pricy - €33 for a berth with no electricity or water. When I expressed surprise, he shortened our length to 9 metres - €26. There were showers at €2  for three minutes and some indifferent toilets. Had a pleasant hour or so with our Swedish friends, Lars and Maude, who are heading for Greece.

 62

 1

 26

 26

June 2

Refuelling was easy at Santa Maria. Pull alongside, telephone the number shown and the man appears within minutes. Water was available here, at the fuel berth..

Round Capo Santa di Leuca, the gateway to the Adriatic. We had a fairly stiff beat to about 5 miles short of Otranto when patience gave out and the motor came in.

At Otranto there are few spaces for visitors on pontoons but some space on quays and ample, if rather exposed, anchoring. The annoying syndrome here is one met in Spain in that most berths are taken by "Socios". Even if the Socio is absent the berth cannot be used by anyone else. You therefore have many vacant berths and visitors only too willing to pay to use them but not allowed to do so. Common sense may prevail one fine day..

On the most seaward pontoon, there are about 6 visitors spaces. A sign says that visitors cannot use the water or electricity and must not leave the boat unattended. Three rules that are ignored by everyone, including the excellent berth master, Andrea. If possible he will help you to a space on the pontoon. If not, he will help you to a space on the quay (no electrics), even diving to retrieve a broken line tailed to the quay.

33

 2

 17

  34

June 3

The usual shopping chore at a nearby supermarket. Then a walk into the very fine old town. The 13th century cathedral is rightly renowned for its mosaic floor depicting the Tree of Life. Truly remarkable.

June 4

A slow start then a good fast spinnaker reach becoming almost a run to Brindisi. Went to the very efficient and friendly new Marina di Brindisi. Here the marina has just about everything that you need  - except for food shopping which, apparently means a bus to Brindisi. There is a Navette but it was out of order. There is a very good and not expensive restaurant on site.

42

 1

 18

 18

June 5 - 6

CROATIA

We had been watching the weather carefully, mainly the DWD RTTY and the US GRIB. Forecasts were such that the options were to cross to Dubrovnik immediately, stay at Brindisi for some indefinite time or go slowly up the Italian coast against a NW wind until a passage to Lastovo became possible. Shopping difficulties at Brindisi and the indifferent reports of  the Italian East coast made the choice easy. A pity, because we wanted to see  Brindisi. Perhaps, another time.

The passage to Gruz, the port of entry was one of the best ever. We covered 118 miles in under 21 hours,  including an abnormally steady spinnaker reach. We saw only three other vessels, one a fishing boat, the others were cruise ships.

Arriving just short of Gruz was a near disaster. The wind went floppy, we tried to start the engine. Just then there was a flash of lightning. All electrics immediately gave up the ghost. No wind, no instruments, shore not far away, getting to batteries, under a berth, of course, and working on them in a rolling sea, in a poor light was an obviously unpleasant option. The easy and safest way out, was a Pan Pan message with the handheld VHF, never before used in anger. It worked, bless it.

This was answered by MRCC Dubrovnik  who ascertained that it was a case of help into port rather than a life saving mission. Would we pay for a tow? YES. Out came the lifeboat service and towed us efficiently into Gruz.

124

(NB Croatian marina fees as quoted hereafter include a visitors tax of 3 kuna pp per night.)

June 6

 10

 38

 380

June 7 - 11

The weather remained mixed with some quite chilly days. We even used the warm air heating and left our little electric heater on all night. We were probably one of the few boats in the marina to have any heating at all.

We went into Dubrovnik, a very attractive city.  There was much evidence of the bombing in the 1991 - 93 war. Much has been renovated but the new work is painfully obvious. One has to wonder at the madness of trying to destroy such a lovely city that can, really, have had little strategic value. All it did was to give the attackers a very bad press. 

There is a small produce market in the city with a rather better choice of fruit and vegetables than at the marina.

The forecasts from the DWD on RTTY from June 8 onwards were showing that the weather should improve by Sunday (June 12)  and winds go back to SE. Those forecasts were consistently maintained right through the week. Another visit to Dubrovnik, another dinner at the excellent marina restaurant and we are ready to leave on the Sunday.

We have never seen so many charter fleets in one marina. Watching the fleets arrive on the Friday evening was a cause of some apprehension. Some skippers were very skilled. Others rather less so. In the first category were an Irish couple on their honeymoon. They backed in alongside us, in a difficult cross wind with consummate care. He even had time for an occasional pleasantry.

June 12

Left Dubrovnik early to avoid the melee that would surely occur as the charter fleets started to leave and. had a nice gentle little sail to the anchorage at Uvala Kosmec on Otok Jakljan.  Rather misled, by the presence of a large charter motor yacht, regarding the position of an underwater cable. The motor yacht looked as though his anchor is one side of the cable while he is lying on the other side. Having tried anchoring inside the cable and dragged, we believe that we dropped our anchor on the seaward side of the cable. Also put off by no anchoring signs believing these to refer to the area near the hotel. Then realised it meant near the cable.  Later, we moved right beyond the cable with all fingers crossed.

The anchorage was incredibly quiet. One other boat at anchor, a few people staying, apparently, in villas probably attached to the hotel.

 17

 1

 June 13

Made a slow start, just sitting and soaking up the peace and quiet. Left about 10 am to see a veritable armada arriving. Charter handover is at the weekend. Today is Monday.

A nice sail to Luka Polace on the island Mljet. The anchorage is in a near landlocked bay. Many boats there on arrival and more came including three other Hallberg Rassys, all Austrian. Despite all the boats, it was quiet. There were 1bout 30 boats moored, probably room for three times as many. We had a first swim as the boat thermometer said 21˚. Felt more like 19˚.

23

 2

 June 14

A short walk up the hill. Saw some glorious butterflies. Got back to the boat, had lunch, just settling down for a siesta when we realised that the stern half of the dinghy had gone flat and - with the engine - was now submerged. Hauled it out, got out the engine manual at the page "Submerged Engine", followed instructions. Lo and behold, it started again. Why the dinghy deflated is a mystery.

 June 15

Feeling the need for re-victualling and wanting not to be trying to get into a marina at the weekend, we motored across to Korcula on the eastern end of Otok Korcula. The marina is well organised. Shopping is easy in the town, a good Konsum nearby, but the market stalls were a rip off. The town is attractive but very touristy.

17

2

 36

 72

June 17

Lastovo was the target. The promised wind should have been a good reach or a spinnaker run - NW to NE F3-4 locally 5. We started with an abortive spinnaker run which turned into a fine reach with a slowly strengthening WSW wind. Nearing the island, it became a stiff beat, top of F 4, to Skrivena Luka. This is another virtually land locked (the name means hidden harbour) anchorage with room for many boats. there were about 8 on arrival.  Beautifully quiet and beautiful.

27

 1

June 18

A short motor around to the quay by the hotel at Pasadur, the head of Luka Velji Lago. A meal out is one objective. This is a quiet place for an overnight mooring. Very clear water for a swim, toilets at the hotel but no showers. A good restaurant, reasonably priced. The island as a whole is a gem. Just quiet and fairly unspoilt, it was forbidden territory to visiting yachts only a few years ago.

6

1

 22

 22

 June 19

Transferred our affection across the sound to Jurjeva Luka. a one time banned anchorage on this one time military enclave. Good holding in the bay, with several mysterious derelict building around the shore. From the Pilots and from indications ashore, this was a base for the Partisan navy and the SOE in WWII. Obviously it became an important location during the cold war when foreigners were not allowed on the island. Two of the buildings are heavily protected against lightning strikes - presumably ammunition stores. There are tunnels into the hillside and a railway track going into the hill. What life there is now is unclear. We saw one chained guard dog and thought it prudent not to be too nosy.

The excitement of the evening was hearing English voices and seeing CA yachts Ming (Bernard and Angela de Saulles) and Silent Wish (Richard and Hilary Young) arrive from Vieste. We knew that they were due around now but not quite so quickly and not in this anchorage. Had a short chat on the radio with Richard. Agreed to meet tomorrow.

 1

 June 20

The crews of Ming and Silent Wish came over for coffee and a chat - a CA get together, Swim and walk ashore, otherwise a lazy day.

June 21

A motor sail with a near headwind to Vela Luka at the western end of Korcula. This was our first drop anchor and go in astern job this year. The anchor chain jammed spoiling what would have been a good approach. Holding was indifferent, so we had a second shot. This went like clockwork. However, some less than experienced charterers arrived, lifted our anchor and dropped it  over our neighbour's anchor a whole boat space away and in the slot to which the charter boat was trying to arrive. We straightened ourselves out, giving a space on our other side. We agreed with the neighbour to sort out the knitting in the morning.

Shopping was reasonably easy. Vela Luka is undistinguished but, apart from its mooring arrangements, a convenient place to stop for a night.

20

 1

 20

 20

June 22

Agreed to leave in tandem with our neighbour and sort out lines, which we duly did. Tried sailing in a promising wind which died. Managed 8.5 miles, tried the spinnaker but had to motor the rest to Palmizana on Otok Sveti Klement in the Pakleni Otoci, just south of Hvar town. A very quiet and largely empty marina. This is an ACI marina that is only open for the Summer months. Hence there are few residents boats taking up all the spaces.

On passage, we could not understand why the course made good was always to the right of that intended. Then we realised that beer cans must have some ferrous content!

Spoke (or wrote) too soon. The flotillas arrived and the marina was virtually full. Still good, although people talking at the bar made for a noisy night.

19

 2

 38

 76

June 23

Took the water taxi to Hvar. A delightful place, Very picturesque. Very touristy. But well worth the 50 kuna per head return (~ €7). Had a very good and not expensive meal at the restaurant at the marina.

June 24

Decided to leave and head for Vis, unless the wind was non existent or contrary. Started with a SE wind and a reach heading for the western end of Vis. The wind headed and it became a beat. We carried on as the wind was a nice one and we were sailing very nicely. Approaching Barjak LH, we began to race a larger Dutch yacht. Many tacks followed but the wind played some very odd tricks. eventually had to tack to round the LH - but the Dutchman motored first. A moral victory!

Had intended anchoring off Komiza but the quay looked good and not over populated. Met by a very helpful young man with excellent English. That evening as it was  getting dark, a number of hang gliders began to appear in some sort of display. They circled the harbour and landed a few metres away. Very spectacular.

28

 1

 20

 20

June 25

Returned to the Pakleni Otoci (Islands). After a slow start and a little motoring the wind got up to a nice SE 3 to 4. Decided to anchor in Uvala Zadrilca, just west of Otok Marinkovac. A good number of boats there but most left towards evening. A good and very picturesque anchorage.

20

1

June 26

A light wind forecast to go W/NW F3.4 did just that. From Uvala Zadrilca to Uvala Glavna or Luka Vlaska on Otok Hvar was the plan, in order to enter Stari Grad on Monday. However, Luka Vlaska seemed full of fish farm and space seemed very limited. Perhaps we did not look close enough in.
U Glavna us very narrow. Had the sea breeze not got up it might have been a possibility. A it was we bear a retreat to Luka Tiha in the approaches to Stari Grad. An anchorage in a superb setting/

16

1

June 27

Part Genoa reach part motor into Stari Grad. A delightful village with no outstanding architectural or other features. Just a nice looking, clean, tidy place with good shopping for food. Good bread shops, moderately good butcher, well stocked supermarket, small restaurants. We chose one in a side street. It was good value. Nothing out of the way, no pretensions. Just good local fish, delicious potatoes, good house wine, coffee and a complimentary glass of grappa.

3

1

16

16

June 28

Part beat, a little motor sail to Luka Milna or, strictly speaking, an anchorage in the inlet to Milna. We tried the bay at the E end of Solta (Uvala Livka) but could find no sensible anchoring depth.. Again, the anchorage was in a superb setting.

19

1

June 29

Motored across to Split. Negotiated for space for 4 or 5 nights. Various jobs to be done eg laundry and a Bora expected (DWD RTTY and US NWS GRIB).

11

5

41

204

June 30 - July 3

Changed primary fuel filter. Engine would not re-start - no fuel flow. Tried on site engineers. Matadura. Man in charge was very offhand. Said he did not work on Volvo engines - despite sign that said Volvo over his door. . Found Volvo engineers at chandlers very close - Nava. Most helpful. Got fuel to flow and engine started. Said lift pump not good. Supplied replacement which would not fit. Tried second hand version of original. Also would not fit. Came back, solved problem of first replacement. Only charged for initial work and cost of pump. Would not take payment for extra work. Very helpful and great contrast to first firm.

Bora duly came Friday night/Saturday morning (1st/2nd July) with no prior warning from Croatian Met Service broadcasts.  This emphasised value of DWD RTTY and US GRIB.

Probably a language problem,  but some of  the marina office seemed not as friendly and helpful as some other ACI marinas. However when help really was required, they were good. The pontoon attendants were fine, the Volvo engineers were great. Perhaps it is a language problem on both sides.

Walked into Split for ATM (then found one near the marina) also to get my spectacles fixed. They do not like being sat upon.

Walked into Split on Sunday, a nice walk round the harbour and OK, if not too hot. With Bora blowing it was fine. Saw boats anchored close to the town. They seemed well sheltered. Town very pleasant. Good market in full flow. At marina watched several boats leaving in very strong winds. Could not think where to or why. Croatian Met says winds up to 45 knots in gusts. Best place is in harbour.

July 4

Waiting for a small parcel from the UK. Eventually, got letter from Croatian customs. Go and collect it!. Marina very helpful, got taxi driver to take us, interpret for us and return. OK.

Result was a late start. Had hoped to anchor north of Ciovo near Trogir. In event only got as far as Uvala Fumija on south side of Ciovo. Good anchorage. All other boats here are charter/or flotilla.

17

1

July 5

Motor round to Trogir allegedly one "not to be missed". Walked around the town in the evening. Very touristy. Some fine buildings and castle. Marina very flotilla oriented. Facilities could do with some care. Also too few for large numbers. Shops at and near marina are poor.

5

1

40

40

July 6

Found the market - over two bridges on the mainland. Good produce.  Met Slovenian boat from Izola. Exchanged phone numbers Hope to meet when we get to Slovenia. We have good impression of Izola. Katja & Zoran Zagorc,  SY Lupinca wrote to us very kindly after we had addressed a query to CA MedNet members. Also, daughter Jayne sailed there in Europes and did well.

Had late start, the a good beat in a F3 to Drvenik Luka on Drvenik Veli. Anchored in tiny harbour. Very picturesque. Another place of no distinction whatsoever, except that it is quiet, well kept, very pleasant indeed. Five other boats joined us. About 12 were on the inside of the new mole, more alongside a small jetty and one or two alongside other quays.

8

1

July 7

Went ashore for bread and fruit. Clearly a holiday island with about 120 (we were told) permanent residents.

Left, with some regret, it is a place where one could certainly stay, for Stari Trogir. No connection with Trogir. Just a large and totally unspoilt bay. We still wonder about all the terracing and stone walls all around. Who built the walls and why?  The holding was good but there were flat rocks around and the anchor made a grinding noise. Should have moved to a quieter spot.

A Belgian yacht hailed us with news of the London bombing. Terrible.

July 8

A brisk Genoa only sail all of 7 miles to Marina Frapa - Rogoznica. reportedly expensive but good. Might pamper ourselves for a couple of nights. Indeed, it is a "posh" marina. A plus is that it does not attract flotillas, it has more long stay berth holders than most so far.

Food shopping at the marina was limited. Far better was a short walk to two good supermarkets backed up by some very good local produce market stalls.

7

2

53

110

July 10

Another short sail with a nice beat in a F3 to the buoys off Primosten. This is yet another very picturesque town on a headland. Anchoring is clearly difficult because of uncertain holding. However, there are about 24 moorings. It looked as though as many again could get moorings to the quays.

7

2

14

28

July 11

A thundery day. Eventually, we decided to stay put and see what tomorrow brings. Intending to go up to Skradin and upriver to the waterfalls. A must do, everyone has said.

July 12

Still a risk of thunderstorms and a possible Bora. The DWD RTTY has been hinting at this for some days now. The Croatian forecast last night seemed to come into line. The result was that we had a good sail to Vodice. We have a small fuel leak around the injectors and would like an engineer to have a look. There is a Volvo agent here.

Vodice is a very good marina. Toilets and showers are well above average. there is a small but quite good supermarket on site with a good produce market alongside and a Konsum very close. Otherwise, it is a holiday resort of no great merit.

14

2

41

83

July 13

Got the fuel leakage fixed by the excellent Volvo agents on site and at a very fair price. Bora in full swing. Stayed put. Had good meal out.

Although there is ample space between line of boats, the marina is not deep. Tailed lines are a problem a long way out as several boats found out when trying to moor stern first. Most beat a dignified retreat. One foolhardy individual pushed his luck with the inevitable fouling of prop on the lines and the equally inevitable rescue operation by the marineros who have seen it all before.

July 14

The wind slowly eased, many boats left and so did we. Headed for the Krka river/waterfalls. A good Genoa only reach to the Kanal Sv Ante, then a motor up the Kanal, past Sibenik and on to a fairly quiet anchorage, Uvala Bertusa, a short distance short of the marina at Skradin. First we wanted a night at anchor and, secondly,  the Bora was still funnelling down the gorges. It must have been doing so through Skradin and berthing would not have been easy. A good excuse, at least.

14

1

July 15

Up to Skradin and the trip to the waterfalls. Free trip up but pay 60 kuna to enter the national park. Took a 4 hour trip  (100 kuna) by boat to the upper lakes. Stopped at a monastery on an island, (Visowac) and on to the upper waterfalls at Roski Slap. On the way back we saw aircraft swooping down onto the waterways to pick up water for fire fighting.

A very pleasant day. The marina is good and fairly quiet at weekends - handover time for charter boats.

2

2

41

82

July 16

Had intended leaving for an anchorage but the fresh water pump was playing up. To get at it means emptying the whole of the aft locker - best done in port. Eventually sorted it out. The filter on the pump inlet had cracked and was letting air into the system. Bound it up with self amalgamating tape pending getting a replacement.

Dined out, very well, at the Bonaca - Rough Guide and our friends Bill and Rona Musker's recommendation.

July 17

Motored down back to the sea and then a pleasant sail through the islands to an anchorage, U. Potkucina off Otok Kakan, behind Otok Borovnjak. This is a large anchorage with plenty of room in water that is not too deep. There are about 50 mooring buoys but still ample anchoring room.

We seem to be seeing a greater proportion of private yachts now or bareboat charter yachts. Flotillas are a thing of the past.

20

1

July 18

A bad start as the sea water pump on the engine was not pulling water through. Fitted a new impeller but had to prime the water filter to get the water flowing. Then a 10 mile gentle run to an anchorage on the N side of Otok Murter, south of Otok Zminiak. This is a large anchoring area but on the track of power boats going to and from Pirovacki Zaliv, Hramina and Bettina marinas and the open sea.

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July 19

A rude awakening. The wind got up onshore - 180 degree shift but, no problem, the anchor held firm. But, thunderstorms developed, the wind began to come from various directions in strong gusts and we dragged. Picked up a mooring in the bay of Otok Zminiak. Very odd, because the anchor came up with mud caked on it and our CQR holds well in mud. The chart said it is a gravel bottom.

Motored round the corner to Marina Hramina. Very upmarket with the most magnificent toilet block ever seen, even in Spain. Very friendly reception. First impressions are the best since Dubrovnik. Their loos really are the Rolls Royce of marina toilet and shower blocks.

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July 20

Had a quiet day, shopping, enjoying the quiet. Despite a large number of people on boats it was a very quiet marina. The Office block is very smart with a lounge area and a bar, the restaurant looked good. The small on site shop was adequate but the in town Konsum and CBA much larger. We found good Italian ground coffee at the marina shop but nowhere else. A real plus as we dislike Croatian coffee.

July 21

Time for the much vaunted Kornati Islands. A slow sail with a slowly increasing wind, a couple of tacks saw us in the Kornatski Kanal. A couple of tacks up the Kanal to Lavsa, one of the designated anchorage areas. There are around 15 buoys here. Room also for a few boats to anchor. One Kornoba and a grill.

Scenery most impressive, if rather stark. Could not help thinking that it was really man created as shepherds had cut down all the trees and made the islands almost barren.

Park rangers came and charged us 80 kuna a head per day. Said it was for one day but that we would be covered for tomorrow also

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July 22

Jennifer and I climbed the adjacent hill for a view of the nearby islands. Then an all too short brisk sail to another anchorage/ moorings at Vrulje. Saw the steep cliffs on Otok Rasip en route.

At Vrulje there is a small settlement of holiday homes or fisherman's cottages (probably both). Had a very good meal ashore at Kornoba Robinson. Great charcoal grilled Dorade. Here met Martin and Irena Selan from Izola, with their pretty little ketch, a Nantucket Clipper.

Rangers confirmed that our 240 kuna would indeed cover two nights. Thunderstorms overnight.

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Ju