Aprilia Marittima to the Ionians via Croatia and Italy

May to September, 2006

Hallberg Rassy 34, Anhinga.

Date

Log

Miles

Nights

€
Night

Total
€

Port

Anchor or Buoy

April 26 - May 7

We had wintered Anhinga at Punta Gabbiani, recommended to us as the best of a trio of marinas at Aprilia Marittima at the eastern end of the Laguna di Marano, half way between Venice and Trieste.

On arriving, our first surprise was that the marina had overlooked instructions to polish/wax topsides and antifoul. They recovered quickly and the jobs were done within two days. Otherwise, fitting out went smoothly helped by the excellent facilities, friendliness of all, a very good nearby chandlers, easy shopping and good restaurants.

For 8 months mooring/storage ashore, lifts out and in, power wash, antifoul, polish and wax, we paid a  total €3530.  Forgetting to do the work on our boat notwithstanding, this is still one of the very best of all the marinas that we have visited. Perhaps the main minus is that the approach to the lagoon from seaward, very shallow and impossible in a strong onshore wind. The channel to the marina has a least depth of 2 m but at the entrance to Punta Gabbiani the depth decreases to about 2 m at half tide.

With our 2 m keel and being on neaps, we had a fairly narrow window to get out. Under the watchful eye of a marinero (briefed by the office), who shepherded us in his work boat through the shallows, we left with no problems.

May 8

The promised light NE'ly becoming SW'ly wind gave us a pleasant enough sail across to Umag, one of the ports of entry to Croatia and the added benefit of immigration after 1 April at the marina itself. The formalities were exceedingly brief.

Having had a small diesel leak we went into the marina fearing that an engineer might be needed. However, the cause was identified, a bolt tightened and all was well.

23

2

40

80

May 9

A very wet day.

May 10

A gentle sail to Novigrad to see the new marina. Still quite empty although we were told that all the 12+ m places had been booked. The hotel was to open in June. Shopping is easy and close with a small market. reception was friendly and helpful. Could well be rather rolly in the marina with a W-NW wind.

Town small, a little run down but probably picking up with the new hotel and marina.

8

1

40

40

May  11

A short motor down the coast to a mooring off Porec. Being a little too far out we missed Porec initially and had to turn back for it.  Picked up buoy. Marina looked a little scruffy.

Tested the new dinghy. Town very touristy. Quite pleasant.

12

1

13

13

May 12

Another short hop, under engine to Vrsar. Newish marina building. Very well sheltered by O St Juraj. Few shops but quite good food shopping.

6

1

40

40

May 13

Rather more windy than forecast. Stayed in harbour for the morning. Shopped at small quite good supermarket, one stall market, bread and fish shop. left after lunch for beat under headsail alone the short distance to Rovinj. Anchored in bay by marina.

10

1

May 14

Swell came in towards morning but very little wind. Rain. Went into marina late morning. More rain. Cleared up during afternoon. went into town. Market still open. Stocked up on fruit, local cheese and some vegetables.

1

40

40

May 15

Sunny with light N wind. Had a pleasant dad run under poled out headsail and main to Uvala Kanalić (Uvala Soline). This was very quiet with a thick mud bottom. The local fishing club has a concession and charges 6 kuna per metre for anchoring! They take your rubbish ashore but offer little else although there are a few buoys.

20

1

4

9

May 16

A very light SW gave a slow 3 miles towards the S tip of Istria Hr Porer. Round the headland and into Pomer. Looked at Medulin. There was a berth but it looked very tight. Opted for Pomer.

This is one of the cheaper ACI marinas in Croatia. But is has an excellent restaurant.  The toilets are adequate but need some tlc. The main down is that visitors are normally on an outside wall. even a slight wind causes a continuous noise of wave action. Between the local supermarket and the mini-market at the marina shopping is fair.

13

1

35

35

May 17

Despite the forecast of W- NW winds the wind was firmly ENE but pretty light, We sailed (mainly) along the E coast of Istria to Luka Krnica, just before the large Zaliev Rasa. The latter is better sheltered but anchorages seem rather small and shore lines are needed. Also large sea going vessels go up the river.  In anything but a SE, L Krnica is well sheltered, very quiet and pretty.

We saw several ships go into Zaliev Rasa and guessed that the very active Luka Krnica fishing fleet offloads there. It might be sheltered but not peaceful.

18

1

May 18

A very hazy day with little wind but enough to (just) sail most of the way to Cres. Impressive marina buildings with Many pillars supporting roof extensions to give much shade.

17

1

0

0

May 19/20

At Cres. Very quiet and laid back. Good marina. Small shop on site for the heavy items. A "Discount" store (small supermarket) a short walk. Butchers, fish shop and vegetables/fruit in the town a little further. The town near the harbour is largely pedestrianised.

Good walk on footpath/cycle track around the bay.

A high spot was a tame peccary that caused great interest. We had a good meal at the ACI restaurant.

May 21

S winds forecast for the next few days. A fair wind for Opatija. A good run. Helpful on arrival. Looks pretty good, possibly not quite as good as Cres.

24

May 22/23

Checked out nearby supermarket. Pretty average smallish. Took bus into Opatija, a most interesting town with a Austro-Hungarian history as a notable spa. Excellent lunch at the Bevanda lido (near the Kvarner hotel).

Following day tool bus to Lovran, a small rather quiet village to the west of the marina. This is a most delightful place. A small good produce market, butchers etc. (His steak was pretty awful, but so it often seems to be in Croatia.)  Many good looking eateries. The highlight was the walk back along the coastal footpath. This runs for about 5 miles from Lovran past Opatija and on to Volosko. There are many well shaded stretches, many benches and refreshment places. Had we realised, we could have walked back from Opatija yesterday.

4

37

149

May 24

Had intended leaving for Punat, but the weather dictated otherwise. the rain began overnight and continued for much of the day and, on and off, into the evening. Give DWD credit, Last Sunday,(21st) they were forecasting strong winds and on the 22n were saying that "COLD FRONT MONDAY 1012 SOUTHEAST SPAIN, 1017 GIBRALTAR, MOVING EAST, THURSDAY 1017 CENTRAL ADRIATIC SEA".

May 25

Initially a brisk sail with a F 3-4 gradually lifting to let us lay our course. Between Cres and Krk, the wind dropped, we had to motor for an hour then had a slow dead run to Punat.  A large quiet bay but probably noisy in high season. A water ski club had a shore based rig that the skiers could use. Very good - it is quiet and it keeps the skiers in a confined area..

27

1

May 26

Went into marina. Oldest in Croatia and one of the largest. very friendly and helpful. Visitors reception near transit berths, reasonably good mini market at marina and very good loos. Good supermarket and butchers in town. Very impressive lift out facilities - two cranes several travel lifts up to 100 tonnes and a slip able to haul up to 500 tonnes. Many workmen and electronic supplies/workshops.

1

31

31

May 27

A motor across to Supetarska Draga on Otok Rab. A delightful anchorage disturbed only by a cockerel crowing. 

16

1

May 28

Despite the Croatian forecast, we had a nice wind that increased to a fairly steady SE 4 touching 5 to give a good sail to Rab.  Started with a Northerly wind out of Supetarska Draga that became a Southerly round the coast down to Rab.

Another low is forecast and we want somewhere with good facilities - shops, markets, etc.

Saw HR42  Margareta, HROA members John and Philippa Sargent, refuelling. Could only wave as they left.

13

May 29/30

Stayed at Rab. Weather on 29th not as bad as forecast. That for 30th more or less as expected. Rain on and off. Some thunder. Strong winds at times. Not nice. Rather chilly.

Met CA members Ted and Susannah on Aphrodite 33, Snö Flicka. Had chat and drinks on board,

Good fresh fruit and vegetable shops/stalls. Good butcher, produce market not very good except for fish and meat. Poor mini market at marina, a rather poor supermarket in town. Nowhere to get reasonable cheese or delicatessen type foods. Very odd. Maybe we did not look had enough..

May 31

Forecasts taking a turn for the worse. Strong winds now expected (DWD and US GRIB) tomorrow, Friday and Saturday. Croatian forecast a little less severe but not appreciably so. Had intended going over to Cres to anchor but decided on Šimuni instead.  Part change of scenery, part for some different shopping. Possibly over cautious but inconsistency in forecasts is worrying.

A brisk start for the 26 mile or so to Šimuni. Then the wind dropped but came back to a gentle fine reach. Saw dolphins off Pag.

24

3

33

102

June 1 and 2

Very windy. Very cold. Stayed at Simony. A slightly odd, frontier town type marina. The wind comes straight off the Velebits. Orographic cloud can sit there all day. Mini mini market at the marina. Nearest ATM and a small Konsum supermarket at the campsite ~ 2 to 3 km along a rough track. Small quite good restaurant. Cheapest ACI marina in Croatia. Helpful marineros give sound advice about letting off shore lines and tightening mooring line at night.

June 3

Forecast a bit marginal but left for Ilovik.  Wind started NE off the Velebits, went to NW to N for a fast 18 mile passage much of it at over 7 knots. Wind a good top 5 at times. Picked up buoy between Otok Ilovik and O Sv Petar.

18

2

12

24

June 4

Went ashore to the very quiet village on Ilovik. Sunday morning, had excellent Cappuccino and bough local honey.

Later went ashore on the opposite side of the anchorage on to Otok Sv Petar. The island seemed to be fenced off into small plots although there was little sign of cultivation. Possibly it was for ownership of some olive or fig trees. Walking along the shore we came to a mini chapel and the a Franciscan monastery. This was clearly well kept, a good looking olive grove and a small harbour large enough for their rowing boat. There were also  some sheep.

Most unedifying here was the sight of yachts rushing away in the morning to avoid paying the very modest fee. Even while we were paying the boat on the next buoy tried to do a runner.

June 5

A slow sail that slowly improved to Mali Lošinj. We need to renew our permit and this is a place where that is possible. The marina is small with few transit berths but it is right by customs/immigration.

Although sunny, the weather is still rather cold.

10

3

39

117

June 6

Spots of rain last night became thunderstorms in the early hours and we awoke to more or less steady rain. At least, it washed the boat. Jennifer had to visit the dentist for a filling.

In the afternoon I tried to sort out some NAVTEX receiver problems of poor aerial connections.

The day had improved and by evening we could walk into town to renew our Vignette. This was nearly a problem as a uniformed lady official who seemed to be a hangover from the communist past. Clearly she thought that her uniform should be used to intimidate her victims.

She did not comprehend that we had left Croatia last year to winter in Italy and then returned this year via Umag etc. She tried to say that we should have renewed at Umag but that was impossible being to early relative to the expiry date of last year's permit. Luckily a young man in casual wear, a "new Croatian" was much more on the ball. He explained to an unwilling listener that we were in transit. All was solved. We are legal - at a cost of 1035 kunas (€142) with a 10% discount for the second year.

June 7

A pleasant walk again into town for shopping, intending to leave tomorrow. The on site shop is pretty good but has no fresh meat and not much fruit or vegetables.  The wind got quite strong from the North with cloud increasing but the showers kept away.

June 8

Wind has increased again overnight, it has not listened to the DWD. Nevertheless, some 5 yachts left Mali Lošinj through the swinging bridge and a short 6 m wide canal into a NE force 6-7.  They had come up from the town quay, anyone seeing the sea on the east of the island would not have left. The sea was very difficult through the canal with large waves and one hit the side. All were trying to go towards Cres ie right into the wind which was impossible other than motoring direct into a rough sea. All decided to bear off. None were wearing lifejackets. All were putting their vessels and lives at risk in the entrance to the cut. Idiots!

After lunch we left for a very quiet and quite charming anchorage, Luka Papranica, on Otok Silba. A few houses, nothing else.

17

1

June 9

A very short sail across to O. Premuda. We looked at the anchorage Uvala Pemuda but depths were not too friendly in the N wind. However, the mooring buoys by Luka Krijal were much more inviting and well sheltered from the cold North wind.

Had a walk ashore. A delightful island, very quiet. Two beach bar cum restaurants by the harbour almost Caribbean in style. The water inshore, again, almost Caribbean in colour.

9

1

11

11

June 10

On to Otok Olib. Another very quiet, picturesque island that makes few concessions to visitors. The one shop closes for the weekend at 1300 on Saturday.  At the weekend come well provisioned or before closing time.  The electricity was not functioning, so we got a discount.

Many well maintained and new looking dwellings. Apparently some emigrants to the US have returned and bought property at high prices making it difficult for the locals. The two groups do not mix – on a small island!

More rain during the evening.

13

2

14

28

June 11

A lazy, do little day. Had lunch at the Amfora. The owner is a French lady, with a Croatian husband. Had truly excellent lunch. Expensive for the area but well worth it. A little French helps as Madame is unwilling to speak English.

June 12

All of 8 miles to Uvala Griparica, Otok Škarda.  One of the quietest bays. Buoyed but, most unusually, they did not charge.

8

1

June 13

Again a short sail to Uvala Lučina, Otok Molat.  The excitement here was an argument between the harbourmaster and a charter yacht. The German skipper refused to believe the reassurance that he had enough water under his keel, trusting his depth sounder. We offered our lead line which proved that the harbourmaster was correct. That earned us a discount as the harbourmaster's favourite yacht,

Two very small shops with limited provisions. Quality of vegetables and fruit improved after the evening ferry came in..

9

1

16

16

June 14

Short sails are becoming a habit. This time to Veli Rat - Zaliv Pantera. Cannot pass up on a name like that.  Or, rather a mooring nearby for lunch and our first swim although the water did not feel like 21.

8

2

12

24

June 15

Motored across to Veli Rat to provision. Unfortunately it was a (local?) RC festival The shop was closed until the service had completed. As this involved clergy and congregation processing around the village and holding a mini service at a number of tables with flowers and crucifixes, opening was delayed. The very small shop was, as is often the case remarkably well stocked for its size. But, one did wonder where the villagers did their every day shopping.

We stayed a second night at this very quiet anchorage in a large, landlocked bay.

June 16

Weather is improving. We reneged on our usual rule that "gentlemen do not beat" and had a very satisfactory sail to Iž Veli,  with a beat to windward most of the way. Satisfactory in that we gave two Bavarias a mile or more start and passed them both.

Iž Veli is a small marina, more like a town quay. Helpful marinero on arriving. Good food shopping (better than similar sized places in the area)  in the two nearby shops and a bread kiosk. The village as a whole seemed to welcome visitors, rather than the take it or leave it attitude at some other small islands.

Here we met Andrew and Carole on Big Ann, a Colvic 32. We agreed that they were a motor boat with sails, we were a yacht with a motor. Andrew was slightly embarrassed as we had heard them when they were aground at Veli Rat. To our joint amusement we found that we were both going to Dalmacija to be met at Mark Studd.

20

1

35

35

June 17

A very short sail to an anchorage for the day at Uvala Muline at  the N end of Ugljan, Quiet at first, but it filled up with boats probably coming from Zadar.

5

1

June 18

A short sail to a lunch stop on Ugljan, virtually opposite Dalmacija our eventual destination for some general work on the boat, provisioning, filling gas cylinders, laundry, refuelling etc. Mark Studd, a CA member whose boat is resident there had arranged a berth in the long stay are of the very large marina.

Dinner at the beach bar, excellent value..

16

3

33

107

June 19.20

Mark very kindly took us to fill gas bottles, buy new co-axial cable for the NAVTEX, a mega shop at a very large supermarket - worlds apart from our recent mini markets and mini mini markets on the small islands.

At Dalmacija we met up with Andrew and Carole with Big Ann and Susannah and CA members Ted and Susannah on Aphrodite 33, Snö Flicka, last seen at  Rab.

Afternoon was spent (by me) re running the NAVTEX aerial cable. Like all boat jobs it took twice as long as my worst estimate.

Dalmacija is a hypermarket style marina. Rather soulless. When you first arrive the overall size is daunting. From our berth it was a mile walk to the reception area with a small supermarket. It is easier to take the dinghy. Best local shopping is probably in the nearby village of Sukošan but, again it would be easier to use the dinghy to get fairly near.

There are facilities for work of many varieties to be done on site. The chandlery is pretty good by Croatian standards. You can do or get done  just about any job

June 21

A nice beat back to the north of O Ugljan. We tried the anchorage round the NW corner at Uvala Pablesina but could not get the CQR to set. Perhaps should have used the Fortress. Went back to Muline. Water 4 degrees C warmer than a few days ago..

The harbourmaster objected to us using his steps when taking garbage ashore.

22

1

June 22

To Uvala Panadinica on O Rava. A delightfully quiet and unspoilt anchorage.

7

1

June 23

Again a beat, this time SE rather than NW'wards, to Sali on Dugi Otok. Reasonably good food shopping in to small supermarkets and vegetable stall. Poor restaurant. Very hot, rather scruffy.  needs to get its act together to become attractive to the yachting community,

10

1

20

20

All the wind had gone, so it was a motor to Luka Telašćica on the S of Dugi Otok. Nearing the S of Dugi Otok we met up for the third time with  Ted and Susannah on  Snö Flicka.

Luka Telašćica is a national park. Very beautiful and peaceful. There are moorings but all well spread out. They charge 50 kunas per person per night. But well worth it.

Decided to stay - hang the expense - all of €20. The rangers cam around noon and said that we would have to pay of we stayed another night. I asked for discount, but no way. I said that I was not sure (we weren't) if we would stay the night, He said, OK, we will come back later. They didn't - intentionally or by accident we will never know.

A short motor to Žut for a lunch time swim in Uvala Bizlkovica.. Then into the marina which really is just about the best of all. One long quay, very clear water. Everyone swims off their boats. One small shop. Two restaurants. Glorious views. Cannot be beaten. In most weathers an ideal place to be.

Met Eugene and Daniela on Danielka an Oyster 53. They were waiting a vital part for their Aqua-drive which had failed just as the were docking.  After 8 days they are still waiting or the part. They will then have to be towed to Hramina.

Stayed at the Žut marina doing very little. This is one of the most expensive of ACI marinas, but this is a result of location and the need to ferry everything in, even water.

Forecast hardened to be predicting NE F 6+ for the next three days. This does not seem very sensible for out planned visit to the Kornati. The change of plan was to go to Hramina on Otok Murter, provision etc there and return to the Kornati - probably Tuesday after the mini Bora. On the passage the wind got up to 6 and even F 7 entering the bay at Hramina. The Bora cloud was very striking.

Here we met Roger Baker a CA member and HLR, on Yaniska and Joe and Shelagh, a retired American couple on their yacht.

Clearly no let up in the wind, Still sailable, but would not be nice at anchor. Decision to come to Hramina a good one. Had very good meal with Roger, Shelagh and Joe.

Took dinghy across the bay to shop at the Jolly Supermarket. Later decided that the nearer and smaller  Konsum was the better. Saw the Oyster Danielka arrive towed in. Later met Eugene and Daniela. who were hopeful they would be back sailing although there is the possibility that they may need a new prop shaft.

On the basis of the forecasts, left Hramina for the Kornati. It was not the German or Croatian Met services' finest hour. Far from decreasing the wind blew like old boots for much of the day. We anchored in Uvala Lopatica and the wind gradually eased. At ins stage on a fine reach under Genoa alone we out sailed a much larger yacht with full main - but no Genoa.

Holding in Uvala Lopatica is excellent and there is a good deal of room

Cost for being in the Kornati is 50 kunas pp if you pay in advance.

Motored round to Uvala Vrulje for lunch at Kornoba Robinson. As good or better than last year. Expensive by Croatian standards but very good indeed. Very pleasant to sit in their restaurant high enough to get some cooling breeze and to overlook the anchorage/moorings.

Charging in the Kornati is as mysterious as last year. They charge 80 kunas pp per day. But, as last year, and as in Luka Telašćica, we did not have to pay for the second night.

DWD were warning of strong winds on Friday - although I could not get their forecast this morning because of a computer power problem. Decided to head for Vodice to top up on gas, get some medication for me, try to sort out computer problem, provisioning etc.

Two very noisy discos went on until about 0430. One has to wonder about the hearing of those who spend much time at these affairs.

Stayed at Vodice. Had walk round the town. Despite what  the Pilot says, there is no gas in Vodice. We failed to find a pharmacy, and getting an inverter will have to wait another day.

For some while we have been checking up with CA friends (Part of the Dalmacija group) Peter and Jessica on Avocet, a Moody 38. The intention has been to meet up with them as they came back North and we went down South. As they had been in Primosten, it seemed that Zlarin was a good bet.

That gave us all of 4 miles motoring from Vodice into a different world. A delightful bay with one sizeable quay, electricity and water, tailed lines, smaller quays for small boats. Very quiet, very unspoilt.

Had a good and inexpensive meal out. Swam off the boat.

Congratulated 18 year old grand daughter Sophie who has just cycled from Land's End to John o'Groats, 856 miles in 13 days, in aid of Bristol Children's hospital where her younger brother Oliver was treated for cancer. A marvellous achievement.

Stayed at Zlarin, lazing around.

A short motor to Šibenik. We had passed by last year and wanted to see the cathedral with its famous faces of the 70 or so burghers who had not paid to the building funds.

On arrival the marineros were helpful. Shopping was good in the market. I could not replace my defunct DC adaptor so have to be very careful about computer usage.

The old town is certainly worth seeing. The downside is that he water is very dirty and we ad to wash topsides later.

Another short sail to a very quiet bay on the NW of Otok Zmajan. Delightfully quiet, one other yacht stayed the night. The only problem was a plague of wasps. This is an island where, as on sop many, there has been extensive terracing at some stage in the past with an enormous number of dry stone walls.

To another good anchorage - Uvala Stupica on Otok Zirje. This is far more popular than on Zmajan but is still pretty quiet. An attraction is the forts dating back to the Roman Emperor Justinian. Swimming was our main occupation on a very hot day. .

As the laptop was rapidly losing power and water was threatening to become short, also food, we had to find a berth somewhere. Primošten was the choice on the small quay. Arriving we had two large thunderstorms nearby but seemed to be in no man's land. 

Computer powered up, some shopping done, a swim on the beach just by the harbour were the highlights of the day.

Primosten has a rather basic quay and is overpriced for what it has. If you do not nee shore power, it is better to be on a buoy.

We had visited Drvenik Luka on Drvenik Veli last year. It is a delightful spot and well worth seeing again.

Maslinica on Otok Solta had been recommended. to us. It is certainly an interesting and good looking place. However, it is at the head of a creek facing west. It can get very hot. It can be rather tripperish. Despite its attractions, we prefer Drvenik Luka!

Needing spectacle repairs, a replacement DC voltage converter for the laptop, a dentist, laundry and a hair cut, Split was the obvious choice. A nice 20 mile beat in a reasonable F 4 was a good sail. A meal out at the very good ACI restaurant just up the hill made a good end to the day.

The Finn Gold cup was being sailed from the Lopud YC right by the marina. We saw results and posters but never a sign of a Finn. We could only think tat they were sailing from a location round the corner.

Most tasks were accomplished. We found a rather super Croatian version of Maplins,  A local optician repaired my spectacles - they do not like being sat upon. Margaret got a haircut, Jennifer will have to await here dentistry until back home. Laundry was well done, we bought engine spares at the excellent Volvo agent and re-provisioned.

Met an Italian couple in an Ovni 345. He works on oil rigs and she teaches. They hope to go round he world at some stage.

A motoring job to an anchorage in Uvala Lucice on Brač. Very pleasant except that it turned out to be one of "Frank's rolly anchorages". The swell generated by the sea breeze just did not stop. It was never uncomfortable. just annoying.

Another motor to Uvala Zdrlica in the Otoci Pakleni. Although many boats were there and there is constant water taxi and small ferry traffic, it is another delightful anchorage.

After waiting for the wind to get up, we had a nice beat to Vis town quay on Otok Vis in a gentle SW F3. We liked Vis town despite the noisy town quay.  A necessary food shops are very close including produce and fish markets.  Kut, about 1/2 mile round the bay looked quieter but not as convenient.